1/2" thick cement slathered over steel mesh. There are several obstacles which have foiled every method I have tried. So everything is tied together onto old wiring and on a 15A breaker for the time being. Now I have pulled 4 new 20A circuits (2 countertop, refrig/lights, OTR microwave), and I have the kitchen itself done, but I can't get the new circuits into the kitchen until I find this junction box. Meaning you can't run the microwave and toaster or coffee pot at the same time. That means that everything in the kitchen is on one 15A breaker. The house was originally wired with only 4 circuits total. Why? Because somewhere between the first light fixture in the kitchen and the ceiling light in the hall/stairwell, there is a hidden junction box containing a crucial splice. I started with the kitchen first, but put it on the back burner while I did the rest of the house. The kitchen is the last circuit I have to do. Over the past several months I've been rewiring my mom's house. So my question is, should the green wire, (as it's pictured in the print you gave me), be hooked to the equipment grounding bar in the main panel in the house, (which is not pictured in the print you gave me), then to the equipment grounding bar in the sub panel in the garage? This is not how it is pictured on the print you guys supplied me with, the print you supplied me with has only a neutral bar in the main breaker panel that supplies the sub panel. Another bare wire goes from another bar inside the main breaker panel (that is not on your print), (I assume it would be the "equipment grounding bar"), to the ground rod outside. Two go to the breaker, one big plastic coated wire(looks the same as the two that go to the main breaker) goes to the neutral bar. There are three wires coming from my electric supplier co. My main panel, in the house, has a neutral bar, and an equipment grounding bar,(that is not pictured in the print you gave me). Morning guys! You didn't answer my question. It sounds to me like the maximum full sized breaker is being limited to 110 amps. Moving a breaker to the other side of the panel does nothing, the power still would come from both bus bars. So, as I'm understanding, there are 2 sides of the "buss bar" in a circuit breaker box, each side should not add up to over 110 amps, right? So this would hold true for the box in the house too, right? If so, I'm going to have to do some rearranging in the main panel in the house to make this true there also, correct? I can do it, just have to move the 30 amp, double pole circuit breaker for the dryer, over to the other side, and put the 60 amp double pole breaker for the feed for the garage in it's place in order to keep both sides under 110 amps, correct?This isn't referring to each side of the panel, but to each stab. I was just looking at the instructions for the new sub panel that goes in the garage and it says, "The sum of QT breaker ratings should not exceed 110 amps per branch circuit stab". The panel holding the circuit breaker in place is NOT sufficient with a back fed arrangement. Circuit breaker hold-downs are required whenever a "plug-in" circuit breaker is back fed. You also need a circuit breaker hold-down kit from the manufacturer of the circuit breaker panel to ensure the main circuit breaker cannot be removed by just pulling it off the bus bars. Yes, you need a 2-pole circuit breaker for this arrangement. At the sub-panel the two hot wires connect to the main circuit breaker in what is called a "back fed" arrangement, the white neutral wire is connected to the insulated neutral bus and the green (or bare) equipment ground wire is connected to the equipment ground bus. Starting from the 2-pole circuit breaker in the service (main) panel you run two "hot" wires from the circuit breaker connections plus a white "neutral" wire from the neutral bus and a green or bare "equipment ground" from the equipment ground bus if such a bus is present in your service panel OR from the neutral bus. You do NOT use the bonding strap nor do you use the bonding screw (if included) in the neutral bus. As Hot posted the equipment grounding bus is bolted to the steel enclosure of the circuit breaker panel with two self-tapping machine screws and this is sufficient to "bond" the equipment ground bus to the enclosure.
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